Two Dudes on Two Pitch...

Rappelling off of Secret Service (5.10) on Two Pitch Wall (rope was in the tree).

After my shift on Saturday morning, I met up with Kenny Johns from Columbia, SC to climb at... you guessed it, Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina. I was intent on climbing some less traveled traditional climbs.

Hiking up the Backside trail is a great way to get warmed up for your first climb of the day and as we arrived at Two Pitch Wall I asked Kenny if he wanted to lead the first pitch. It was a big deal because Kenny hadn't lead anything traditionally but had experience cleaning routes to learning how to place and remove gear. I could tell Kenny was anxious. With good reason, he asked questions like, "Any words of wisdom?" "Can we talk about the anchor again?" "How do I belay you up there?"

Kenny leads his first Trad climb Two Pitch!

Kenny did a great job leading the first pitch of Two Pitch (5.4), his first traditional route. He also surprised me with three awesome nut placements as well as having all solid pieces. Good job Kenny!  He had some trouble with the anchor and something inside me said that I could free solo this route anyway. So, I did!

It was my first time climbing this route so I studied it carefully from the ground and prepared myself mentally with a couple of deep breaths. As I started climbing, I cleared my head and focused on climbing smooth, safe, efficiently, and I reminded myself to breathe.  

The first pitch of Two Pitch(5.4) has some challenging moments but has good gear options throughout the whole route. My favorite part of the climb was the near the top of the first pitch because it had some great had  jams and was heady with no protection.

Kenny and I built an anchor and I led Eat A Peach(5.7). This diagonal crack is super exciting with exposure and well protected through the crux. Jugs lent themselves to me as I placed gear and pulled the small overhang at the end of the crack. The climbing mellows out but the rock quality becomes less inspiring. This route is a great introduction to multi-pitch climbing and has some great crack climbing sections.

Kenny and I  hiked down debating what route to do next. We decided he would lead the first pitch again and set up an anchor and I would lead the second pitch of Two Pitch(5.4). This route offered great gear options, fun exposed climbing and wasn't too chossy(bad quality rock).

Kenny finishing the first pitch of Two Pitch

After climbing to the top of Two Pitch we rappelled off the backside into what's known as Car Wall.  I led the traditional route Entertainment For Men (5.9).  It was a good short route that was fairly sustained with good gear options. This wall doesn't see a lot of action because it is fairly hidden and has only one sport climb/top rope set up.


This was the end  to a fabulous day at Crowders and the exciting part was that I was coming back the next day!

To be continued...

The Latest

Columbia - Richland Fire Department
Graduating Recruit Class 12-01

Since I last checked in I've had a trip to Looking Glass with an absolutely fabulous group, I graduated from Recruit training, had an eye opening session at Crowders and I worked my first shift as a firefighter.

Not fun to lead the crux of the second pitch
with all this rope drag on  The  Womb(5.11b).

Looking Glass Rock was out of the blue. I didn't have a car at the time and I was invited to join on a camping/climbing excursion. I was suppose to climb two days and I was pummeled by the rock so I chose to veto the second day of climbing.  We warmed up on the classic Sundial Crack(5.8) and I combined the first two pitches of  The Womb(5.11b) and because of seeping water I couldn't cli... okay okay, I hadn't planned on climbing the third pitch because it is the (5.11b) part of the climb and my wrist was bothering me. I also learned a valuable lesson. When you are combining two pitches, make sure you have enough draws or better yet, invest in a double rope system for multi-pitch climbing.
          The best part of the trip was being able to hang out with good friends. We had a blast camping around a fire, enjoying our food and refreshments, meeting new friends and catching up with each others lives. All and  all, I look forward to climbing, camping and making more memories at the Glass.

Recruit School is officially finished. I am going to miss getting payed to work out and study. I am glad to let my body recuperate from pains and strains.  Recruit Training was a long four month process that deprived me of my climb time but instilled in me new abilities and bigger leg muscles from carrying the old heavy steel cylinders with air on my back. With that said, I have started doing pull-ups again and found that I'm out of pull-up shape. My body feels so much heavier from the extra muscle I've gained. Pro and con, I suppose.

Camping at Looking Glass Rock

          I finished up my first shift today and it was a drastic change from what recruit school was like. My partner said we ran more calls then she had ever run before. We ran a fender bender, an accidental lockout with a baby in the car luckily with the air on, a gentleman with chest pains, a car overheating on the side of the road, a malfunctioning alarm system (false alarm), a brush fire (false alarm), and a elder gentleman have problems standing up. Fortunately, the community near my station was safe at night because there were no calls past ten o'clock.  Now what to do with my first day off?

Pinky Pillar below Two Pitch Wall

Last Sunday (April 29th) I went to Crowders with a friend and ended up climbing with her and a couple of other friends from Columbia that we happened to bump into. I taught them the art of staying in the shade at Crowders. We started off by climbing the Pinky Pillar cliff left of Middle Finger Wall and continuing our adventure onto Car Wall. I was stoked to climb the traditional line Drive On (5.8) on Car Wall. It is a fun overhanging jug  route that is only about 30-40 feet, it's hard to tell because of the overhang, but the feature is very nice a must do trad line at Crowders.
          We gathered our gear and when to Red Wall. Here we I did a lap on the Gimp(5.10d) and then tried Beer Wolf (5.9+) traditional. I got spanked. It was the end of the day and I took on more than my endurance could handle coming off a long stint of not climbing hard. It would have helped if I didn't get off route but I got the onsight attempt out of the way so next time I can hopefully climb it clean and do a couple of other trad routes nearby.

Now that the year is almost halfway over, I need to kick it into high gear if I'm going to achieve what I set out to do. I need to get back into climbing shape and start ticking away at what I have left at Crowders. Until next climb!

What's been Up?

Its been quite a while since I last checked in, and since then I've been a busy, tired, injured, and lucky man.  Just a quick run down of what has happened.

USC Carolina Crush Competition 

On Saturday February 18th 2012 I attended the Carolina Crush Competition at University of South Carolina. I had a great time climbing with local athletes, I appreciated most of the local setters, and enjoyed the USC climbing wall which I rarely get to experience. An climber from Boone, North Carolina placed in first in the Men's Advanced Category. Garrett DeBruin, a local USC student and former Stronghold Gym employee, placed in second in the Men's Advanced Category and I managed to snag third Place in the same category. There were only three competitors in the Men's Advanced. There were no Female Advanced competitors but there were two intermediate ladies from Columbia that took 1st and 2nd in the Women's Intermediate Category. My love competed and placed 3rd in the Women's Beginner Category - Good Job Nicole!







On Wednesday March 7th 2012 I graduated from the South Carolina Fire Academy.  I can now work anywhere in the state of South Carolina as a Firefighter. I have the privilege of training at the Columbia Fire Training Academy until we test for competency and hopefully we all graduate on Friday April 27th 2012. Unfortunately, during the last week at the SCFA I had an awful toothache that required a root canal.

James Island Palmetto Pump 

Ava doesn't know how to read yet...

I competed in the Palmetto Pump Climbing Competition at James Island County Park on Saturday March 10th 2012 and had an awesome day climbing and hanging out with my girls (Nicole and Ava), a friend living in Greenville (Ashley Navarro), and a couple of the children/teenagers that I previously coached at Stronghold Gym when it was Stronghold Athletic Club.  The routes were a treat because the wall at James Island is a fifty foot 'woody'. It resembles a tall rappel training tower, like the military would use, that has been converted into a climbing wall.  I placed 1st in the Men's Adult Category, Ashley place third in the Women's Adult Category and we both won prizes in the raffle.

Bouldering at Rumbling Bald

Then the next day, Sunday March 11th 2012, I was able to enjoy a day of bouldering at Rumbling Bald, North Carolina. I haven't been bouldered in a long time but to my surprise I was able to keep up with the crew that invited me and my family.  We had so many pads that we were able to safely try some classic highball boulder problems.

I injured myself this week during training and badly sprained my wrist. I had to postpone my goal of working on Welcome to Crowders (5.12a) this weekend and settled with getting in a nice hike and trying to take some pictures.  I did climb a couple of routes on top rope but couldn't bring myself to lead anything.  We were suppose to have 40% chance of rain and thunderstorms but instead we left with sunburns and the overall feeling the winter never fully developed, spring never came and summer is already here.  West Virginia anyone?

This upcoming weekend is going to be exciting! I hope that my wrist will heal because I want to be fresh for the Jocasse Gorges Bouldering Trail Day on Saturday March 24th 2012 in South Carolina. We as South Carolinian climbers have an opportunity to develop a healthy relationship with South Carolina State Park Officials and maybe get more climbing areas opened to the public in the near future. Thanks to Steven Scoff from Columbia and especially Brad Caldwell, from the Upstate, whom have both been working diligently with the park staff to establish trail days at Table Rock, SC and now Jocasse Gorge, SC.

I was lucky to get a lot of climbing before I started fire fighter recruit school. I only climb about once a week now and I am truly missing my favorite past time.

However, I do appreciate that I am getting paid to cross-train for climbing. When my shift schedule is 24 hours on and 48 hours off, I will hopefully get back on track with my goal to be a consistent 5.12 climber by the end of 2012.  I do hope to enter more competitions because they are fun and challenging. Thank you to Nicole and Ava for coming to play with me on the weekends. I am grateful that you are willing to combine family time and climbing time so that I get the best of both worlds.


That's all for now, I'll see you outside. Keep crushing!

Family Day

Practice Wall at Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina

 I am currently into my sixth week at the South Carolina Fire Academy with the Columbia Fire Department. January 9th was the start of my training with the fire department and since then I've only been climbing once a week on Sundays. I would frequent Stronghold Gym about twice a week and go climbing at least once on the weekend on an average before starting with the fire department.

Now that I only climb once a week, I truly cherish the time I spend on the rock and have had to change my tactics with how I go about choosing what to climb. I have had to identify my goals before hand and feel them out at the crag.

As most of you know, I frequent Crowders Mountain State Park in Gastonia, North Carolina quite a bit. It is the nearest climbing to Columbia, South Carolina and has been a large portion of my schooling in traditional and sport climbing since I moved to Columbia in 2005.

This past Sunday I was fortunate to have my family (Nicole and Ava) and an old friend (Ashley Navarro) with me at my stomping ground. We started the day at Practice Wall where I lead Playground (5.9 trad) and then lead a route that I had top-roped the previous Sunday. This route in particular was neat to me because it isn't in any guidebooks so I took the liberty of dubbing it something until I find some or any information on it.

Davids Castle Backside at Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina

The word 'arete' is french for edge or ridge and heady implies head games, thus Heady Areteddy (5.9 trad) was the name I chose for the route on the arete left of Gastonia Crack (5.4 trad) on Practice Wall. I don't know why this route has been overlooked or why it has nevery been mentioned, I thought it was really fun and placing the gear was not too challenging. It was one of the climbing highlights to my day.

 Another highlight would be leading Nuclear Cottage Cheese (5.9+ trad). I (like many) thought that I had led it before but I was actually on Overhang Direct (5.8 trad).  Nuclear Cottage Cheese has cottage cheese like features starting about half way up the crack system that leads to a roof. I had the pleasure of cutting away briers from this route which is ironically in a high traffic top rope area.

I had a wonderful time with my family and friends on the mountain that yielded mostly pleasurable conditions.  I'm not sure of where I am going next Sunday, all I know is that there is a Sunday and that I look forward to being on the rock.

Until next climb...

Super Sunday

 

Today was my birthday and it couldn't have asked for anything better. I spent the day at Crowders Mountain State Park with my love, Nicole.  Ava got to go to a Super Bowl party while we had the mountain to ourselves.   The drive to Gastonia, North Carolina is about two hours and the closer we got to Crowders the more fog and wet conditions we encountered. Never the less, we pushed forward to do some wet top roping if need be.  

We reached the top of Practice Wall where we rappelled from Gastonia Crack(5.4) and Nicole climbed Playground(5.9+)  on top rope.  I top roped the arete left of Gastonia Crack(5.4) I don't know what it is called because it is not printed on any of the old or recent guidebooks.  I would say it is (5.10a), I plan on leading it next time I am at Practice Wall. I proudly led The Wall (5.10a) and I was pleased to get the redpoint that had slipped away the previous trip. This route has a bit of a runout but nothing a top rope run won't remedy. 

Lastly, I climbed something that I had been working on sending for quite some time now. Golden Shower(5.9) is a line that is mentioned in the Thomas Kelley guidebook.  I did an alternate start that isn't in the guidebooks. When I first top roped this alternate start it didn't feel very hard but having to place gear on this overhang drained my energy and I ended up falling a good distance from my last piece of protection. I was thankful that it held and that I had such an awesome belayer (thanks Nicole).  Anyway, I ended up climbing the route all the way to the top of Davids Castle Wall. We tried to take pictures of the line but it was foggy all day.  We called it a day fairly early due to the weather not being optimal for climbing, and I wore myself out on Golden Shower Overhang (5.10). 

Nicole and I decided to treat ourselves to a birthday celebration dinner at The Cheesecake Factory. Let me just say that we are addicted to the Avocado Eggrolls.  We were pleased with our waiter Joe whom also provided a cheesecake dessert for the special occasion, thanks Joe!  

All in all I must say that I am a lucky birthday boy.  Hopefully next weekend will be a little sunnier. Maybe the Bald will be nice. Climb On!

Daddy a Fidey Fighdo

Columiba Fire Department

I recently completed my second week of training at the South Carolina Fire Academy, and it was no joke.

Thirty recruits started training to acquire our first certifications in Emergency Medical Response (EMR) and Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR).  We were given two attempts to achieve a minimum of eighty percent to continue on to the next certification in Hazardous Materials (HAZMAT) Awareness.  Unfortunately, two members of the recruit class could not achieve the percentage needed to continue in the Academy. It was a bitter-sweet end to the second week of training.

From January 11th - January 19th we read the EMR text and tested in EMR, CPR, and Applied Skills. On January 20th we reviewed Chapters 1-3 in our Fourth Edition - Hazardous Materials for First Responders text and proceeded to test on that material. Fortunately the remaining twenty eight recruits passed with the minimum seventy percent or more standard.

South Carolina Fire Academy

We are now starting into our Fifth Edition - Essentials of Fire Fighting text. The pace at which we are working was described as hitting the ground running. Which could be an understatement seeing as we are required to read the first five chapters (230 pages) and do the Essentials of Firefighting Study Guide (68 pages).

After a year of Midnight Shifts (10pm-4am) at United Parcel Service, it was quite the experience to readjust my sleeping habits. Recruits arrive at the facility at 7am to march to breakfast and then proceed to Physical Training (my area of expertise). After physical training we hit the classroom with five to ten minute breaks on the hour.  We march to lunch at 12pm and march back to our classroom to hit the books at 1pm. I've never been one for school, so I'm re-learning how to 'hit the books' when I arrive at home at about 6-7pm.


I had enough time to hang out with my girls, Nicole and Ava, last weekend on a fun filled Saturday. Ava proudly states,"daddy a fidey fighdo" or daddy is a fire fighter for those of you who don't speak two year old. Ava is truly being a trooper with all the changes going on around her. She has been heading to several awesome sitters that absolutely adore her. Our family could not function without the help of these magnificent ladies and families that we are proud to call our friends. Thanks to you all (you know who you are).

I also managed to make it to the mountain for some much needed stress relief last Sunday.  I read my text book on the way to Crowders Mountain State Park, had a blast climbing and as soon as we hiked down the mountain I hit the books for the car ride home.

Rumbling Bald, North Carolina

I am currently writing this while taking a break from reading (I just finished chapter 2 after hitting the books at 12pm).  Alas, it may rain tomorrow but I am still going to try and get some climbing in at Rumbling Bald, North Carolina.  Hopefully, the big guy in the sky will allow it. If not, we'll probably head to ClimbMax Climbing Gym in Ashville or a bar nearby to have some drinks.  Some form of stress relief is better than no stress relief :-)

Anyway, time to hit the books again. In the words of a good friend of mine, "Raining rhymes with Training" so get to it!

Goodbye 2011 Hello 2012

The Nutcracker - Orangeburg Civic Ballet

Sorry it has been so long since my last post. I left you last with a post about Hobby Fair, since then I've been a busy bee with performing 'The Nutcracker' in Griffin, Georgia and in Orangeburg, South Carolina, working PEAK SEASON for UPS, family Christmas time, and of course finding time to rock climb!

First things first, I danced ballet professionally until my beautiful baby girl was born and then my priorities changed.  After two years of not dancing professionally, I was quite surprised to receive some phone calls asking if I was still dancing and if I was able to perform.  At first I didn't want to try and jump back into ballet because quite honestly it's HARD.

Luckily, it's like riding a bicycle. The muscle memory is there but one sure has to work to get strength and stamina back. The performances in Griffin, GA and Orangeburg, SC both went very well. I was invited to go back to Griffin, GA for there May performance of  "The Little Mermaid".  Dancing is also very good cross training for climbing. It's taught me to dance up the mountain!

UPS Peak Season was somewhat disappointing, I was hired last Peak Season and it felt like it was never going to end. Maybe the fact that I was a New Hire and didn't know what to expect made it that much harder because this Peak Season flew by quickly.  Our belt received several 'prizes' for being the 'best belt' in the HUB.  I acquired a UPS trucker hat and a UPS sweater. Good news and bad news.

Bad news first - I had to put in my two weeks notice at the beginning of the year. They told me that I would have good Re-Hire status if I ever wanted to come back.

Good news - I had to put my two weeks notice in because I got hired to be a Columbia City Firefighter Recruit. I have orientation on the 5th and I start recruit school on Jan. 9th. Wish me luck!

Happy Holidays

Nicole, Ava, and I all had a fabulous Christmas. It was exciting to see Ava grasp the idea (maybe too well) of opening presents. Anywhere she went, and saw presents, she was all about trying to open them. Ava is just too smart for a two year old. We spent our holiday season here in Columbia with Nicole's family and relatives. Tell you what, I thought I could hold my alcohol, these people are professionals ;-)

Stronghold Gym

I took a three week hiatus from climbing to be able to do "The Nutcracker" performances and I was feeling worn out after my performances (old knee conditions acting up).  I started climbing at the gym to get a feel for what I was working with. I lost a lot of grip strength and endurance but otherwise I was feeling mentally strong on lead in the gym.  I managed to end the year with a lot of last minute ticks that I didn't expect to achieve.  I am rather please with my last two weeks of climbing in 2011! For 2012 I want to try and onsight a (5.12). Might as well go 'balls to the wall,' right?

Rumbling Bald, North Carolina

I went climbing January 1st at Rumbling Bald, North Carolina and had a wonderful day guiding a group of friends from Columbia. It was a great way to start 2012, I just wish my girls (Nicole and Ava) were there too.

On a rather tragic note, there was an accident at Rumbling Bald, N.C. on January 2nd. Unfortunately, it did not end well. The gentleman involved in the accident did not make it. He was a Irmo, South Carolina local and climbed at Stronghold Gym. Some of the details can be obtained here. My condolences to his wife and three children. What a horrible reminder that climbing is actually very dangerous. We as a climbing community need to remember that safety and risk assessment should be at the top of our checklists.

2011 Noteworthy Ticks and Highlights

Middle Finger (5.7)

1) Middle Finger (5.7) TRAD - Redpoint - First BIG FALL. I fell 15ft-20ft due to a broken hold. I got the Redpoint on my second attempt.  CROWDER MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

Nuclear Arms (5.10a)

2) Air Show (5.8) TRAD - Onsight - First trip to Moore's Wall. MOORE'S WALL, NORTH CAROLINA

3) New Yosemite (5.9) TRAD - Redpoint - First CRACK climb. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough big gear when I was leading and had to settle for a Redpoint with borrowed gear on the second attempt.  NEW RIVER GORGE, WEST VIRGINIA

4) Nuclear Arms (5.10a) TRAD - Onsight - First (5.10) Traditional Onsight. RUMBLING BALD, NORTH CAROLINA

When Shrimp Learn to Whisle (5.11a)

5) Scramble My Feedback (5.10a) TRAD - Onsight - Second (5.10) Traditional Onsight. CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

Focus (5.11c/d R)

6) When Shrimp Learn to Whistle (5.11a) SPORT - Redpoint 1st pitch/Onsight 2nd pitch - I combined both pitches into one long endurance pitch. Very proud send! PILOT MOUNTAIN, NORTH CAROLINA



7) Focus (5.11c/d R) MIXED - Onsight - First 'R' in the (5.11) grade. RUMBLING BALD, NORTH CAROLINA

8) Red Red Wine (5.11b) SPORT - Onsight - Second Sport Onsight of the (5.11) grade. CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

Axis (Bold as Love)(5.11c/d)

9) Axis (Bold as Love) (5.11c/d) MIXED - Redpoint - HARDEST CRACK CLIMB SENT! CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

10) Slimebelly, Snakeass, Sodhole, Skunkpie (5.12a) MIXED - Redpoint- First MIXED climb sent in the (5.12) grade. I did it twice on two separate occasions. CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

Fashion (5.12b)

11) Silence the Critics (5.12b) SPORT - Redpoint #2 - Stoked to get the repeat after a year a two months since the first Redpoint. It felt a lot different since the first time, easier! CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE  PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

Fashion Direct (5.12c)

12) Fashion (5.12b) SPORT - Redpoint - Proud send after only three trips and five attempts! CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

13) Fashion Direct (5.12c) SPORT - Redpoint - This route adds a hard boulder problem to the original Fashion. I got it the first try after the Fashion (5.12b) Redpoint. CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

Thank you friends and family for a fabulous 2011. I'll see you at the mountains!