Saturday, January 21, 2012

Daddy a Fidey Fighdo

Columiba Fire Department
I recently completed my second week of training at the South Carolina Fire Academy, and it was no joke.

Thirty recruits started training to acquire our first certifications in Emergency Medical Response (EMR) and Cardiopulmonary Resuscitation (CPR).  We were given two attempts to achieve a minimum of eighty percent to continue on to the next certification in Hazardous Materials (HAZMAT) Awareness.  Unfortunately, two members of the recruit class could not achieve the percentage needed to continue in the Academy. It was a bitter-sweet end to the second week of training.

From January 11th - January 19th we read the EMR text and tested in EMR, CPR, and Applied Skills. On January 20th we reviewed Chapters 1-3 in our Fourth Edition - Hazardous Materials for First Responders text and proceeded to test on that material. Fortunately the remaining twenty eight recruits passed with the minimum seventy percent or more standard.
Learn about SCFA's Facilities and Props
South Carolina Fire Academy


We are now starting into our Fifth Edition - Essentials of Fire Fighting text. The pace at which we are working was described as hitting the ground running. Which could be an understatement seeing as we are required to read the first five chapters (230 pages) and do the Essentials of Firefighting Study Guide (68 pages).

UPS
After a year of Midnight Shifts (10pm-4am) at United Parcel Service, it was quite the experience to readjust my sleeping habits. Recruits arrive at the facility at 7am to march to breakfast and then proceed to Physical Training (my area of expertise). After physical training we hit the classroom with five to ten minute breaks on the hour.  We march to lunch at 12pm and march back to our classroom to hit the books at 1pm. I've never been one for school, so I'm re-learning how to 'hit the books' when I arrive at home at about 6-7pm.


I had enough time to hang out with my girls, Nicole and Ava, last weekend on a fun filled Saturday. Ava proudly states,"daddy a fidey fighdo" or daddy is a fire fighter for those of you who don't speak two year old. Ava is truly being a trooper with all the changes going on around her. She has been heading to several awesome sitters that absolutely adore her. Our family could not function without the help of these magnificent ladies and families that we are proud to call our friends. Thanks to you all (you know who you are).

I also managed to make it to the mountain for some much needed stress relief last Sunday.  I read my text book on the way to Crowders Mountain State Park, had a blast climbing and as soon as we hiked down the mountain I hit the books for the car ride home.



Aerial View of The Bald
Rumbling Bald, North Carolina
I am currently writing this while taking a break from reading (I just finished chapter 2 after hitting the books at 12pm).  Alas, it may rain tomorrow but I am still going to try and get some climbing in at Rumbling Bald, North Carolina.  Hopefully, the big guy in the sky will allow it. If not, we'll probably head to ClimbMax Climbing Gym in Ashville or a bar nearby to have some drinks.  Some form of stress relief is better than no stress relief :-)
ClimbMax Climbing

Anyway, time to hit the books again. In the words of a good friend of mine, "Raining rhymes with Training" so get to it!

Thursday, January 5, 2012

Goodbye 2011 Hello 2012

The Nutcracker - Orangeburg Civic Ballet


Sorry it has been so long since my last post. I left you last with a post about Hobby Fair, since then I've been a busy bee with performing 'The Nutcracker' in Griffin, Georgia and in Orangeburg, South Carolina, working PEAK SEASON for UPS, family Christmas time, and of course finding time to rock climb!

First things first, I danced ballet professionally until my beautiful baby girl was born and then my priorities changed.  After two years of not dancing professionally, I was quite surprised to receive some phone calls asking if I was still dancing and if I was able to perform.  At first I didn't want to try and jump back into ballet because quite honestly it's HARD.

Luckily, it's like riding a bicycle. The muscle memory is there but one sure has to work to get strength and stamina back. The performances in Griffin, GA and Orangeburg, SC both went very well. I was invited to go back to Griffin, GA for there May performance of  "The Little Mermaid".  Dancing is also very good cross training for climbing. It's taught me to dance up the mountain!

UPSUPS Peak Season was somewhat disappointing, I was hired last Peak Season and it felt like it was never going to end. Maybe the fact that I was a New Hire and didn't know what to expect made it that much harder because this Peak Season flew by quickly.  Our belt received several 'prizes' for being the 'best belt' in the HUB.  I acquired a UPS trucker hat and a UPS sweater. Good news and bad news.

Bad news first - I had to put in my two weeks notice at the beginning of the year. They told me that I would have good Re-Hire status if I ever wanted to come back.

Good news - I had to put my two weeks notice in because I got hired to be a Columbia City Firefighter Recruit. I have orientation on the 5th and I start recruit school on Jan. 9th. Wish me luck!

Happy Holidays

Nicole, Ava, and I all had a fabulous Christmas. It was exciting to see Ava grasp the idea (maybe too well) of opening presents. Anywhere she went, and saw presents, she was all about trying to open them. Ava is just too smart for a two year old. We spent our holiday season here in Columbia with Nicole's family and relatives. Tell you what, I thought I could hold my alcohol, these people are professionals ;-)


Stronghold Gym
Stronghold Gym


I took a three week hiatus from climbing to be able to do "The Nutcracker" performances and I was feeling worn out after my performances (old knee conditions acting up).  I started climbing at the gym to get a feel for what I was working with. I lost a lot of grip strength and endurance but otherwise I was feeling mentally strong on lead in the gym.  I managed to end the year with a lot of last minute ticks that I didn't expect to achieve.  I am rather please with my last two weeks of climbing in 2011! For 2012 I want to try and onsight a (5.12). Might as well go 'balls to the wall,' right?

Rumbling Bald, North Carolina
I went climbing January 1st at Rumbling Bald, North Carolina and had a wonderful day guiding a group of friends from Columbia. It was a great way to start 2012, I just wish my girls (Nicole and Ava) were there too.

On a rather tragic note, there was an accident at Rumbling Bald, N.C. on January 2nd. Unfortunately, it did not end well. The gentleman involved in the accident did not make it. He was a Irmo, South Carolina local and climbed at Stronghold Gym. Some of the details can be obtained here. My condolences to his wife and three children. What a horrible reminder that climbing is actually very dangerous. We as a climbing community need to remember that safety and risk assessment should be at the top of our checklists.

2011 Noteworthy Ticks and Highlights

Middle Finger (5.7)
1) Middle Finger (5.7) TRAD - Redpoint - First BIG FALL. I fell 15ft-20ft due to a broken hold. I got the Redpoint on my second attempt.  CROWDER MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA


FLAPPING IN THE BREEZE / NUCLEAR ARMS AREA <br /> <br />Nuclear Arms (5.10a) <br /> <br />Rumbling Bald, North Carolina
Nuclear Arms (5.10a)
2) Air Show (5.8) TRAD - Onsight - First trip to Moore's Wall. MOORE'S WALL, NORTH CAROLINA

3) New Yosemite (5.9) TRAD - Redpoint - First CRACK climb. Unfortunately, I didn't have enough big gear when I was leading and had to settle for a Redpoint with borrowed gear on the second attempt.  NEW RIVER GORGE, WEST VIRGINIA

4) Nuclear Arms (5.10a) TRAD - Onsight - First (5.10) Traditional Onsight. RUMBLING BALD, NORTH CAROLINA

When Shrimp Learn to Whisle (5.11a)
5) Scramble My Feedback (5.10a) TRAD - Onsight - Second (5.10) Traditional Onsight. CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

Photo
Focus (5.11c/d R)
6) When Shrimp Learn to Whistle (5.11a) SPORT - Redpoint 1st pitch/Onsight 2nd pitch - I combined both pitches into one long endurance pitch. Very proud send! PILOT MOUNTAIN, NORTH CAROLINA



7) Focus (5.11c/d R) MIXED - Onsight - First 'R' in the (5.11) grade. RUMBLING BALD, NORTH CAROLINA

8) Red Red Wine (5.11b) SPORT - Onsight - Second Sport Onsight of the (5.11) grade. CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

RED WALL <br /> <br />Axis (Bold as Love) (5.11c/d) <br /> <br />Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina
Axis (Bold as Love)(5.11c/d)
9) Axis (Bold as Love) (5.11c/d) MIXED - Redpoint - HARDEST CRACK CLIMB SENT! CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

10) Slimebelly, Snakeass, Sodhole, Skunkpie (5.12a) MIXED - Redpoint- First MIXED climb sent in the (5.12) grade. I did it twice on two separate occasions. CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

Fashion (5.12b)
11) Silence the Critics (5.12b) SPORT - Redpoint #2 - Stoked to get the repeat after a year a two months since the first Redpoint. It felt a lot different since the first time, easier! CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE  PARK, NORTH CAROLINA


Fashion Direct (5.12c)
12) Fashion (5.12b) SPORT - Redpoint - Proud send after only three trips and five attempts! CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

13) Fashion Direct (5.12c) SPORT - Redpoint - This route adds a hard boulder problem to the original Fashion. I got it the first try after the Fashion (5.12b) Redpoint. CROWDERS MOUNTAIN STATE PARK, NORTH CAROLINA

Thank you friends and family for a fabulous 2011. I'll see you at the mountains!

Saturday, November 19, 2011

Round Top Elementary Hobby Fair

After working all night at UPS and getting home at 4:30am, I woke up at 6:30am with Nicole and Ava. We dropped Ava off at her babysitter's house and headed to Round Top Elementary School where Nicole teaches Dance Education.  I was asked to come share a hobby at the Hobby Fair so of course I chose Climbing (I thought about including ballet, kayaking, and skateboarding but you only get about a minute with 5-10 children at a time).
Luck Table #13
I set up my table and got ready to go. Some of my favorite highlights are:

"Hey guys this is a Carabiner."
A Carabiner

"What do you think you call a Carabiner that locks?" Blank stares... so I tell them "a Locking Carabiner!"
Locking Carabiner
 "What do you think you call a Carabiner that locks automatically?" Blank stares again. I ask,"Any guesses?" No response. "An Auto-Locking Carabiner!"

Auto-Locking Carabiner
I would ask them as they came up to my table, " So what do you guys think I do?"

Answers,   "You make stuff!"

                 "You fly!" 
                  "You go hiking!"
                 "Mountain Climbing!"
                 "Kayaking!" (really? I wondered about this child)
                 "You do things!"

"What do you guys think that bag on the back of my harness is for?"

                                                                Answers, "For Snacks"

             "Water bottle holder"

               "For things"

"I'll give you a hint. See the white stuff around the edges? Gymnasts use it."

Answers, "Grip stuff"
               "Chalk"
               "Tights" (too funny)


To me children are funny to have a conversation with because sometimes they grasp and understand what you are telling them but some of them don't have a clue... but you give them the benefit of the doubt because they are children right?

It was also Dress Like Your Favorite Book Character Day. Here is Nicole as her favorite book character - Fancy Nancy.

All and all I had a great time but I realized that next time (if there is a next time) I need to come up with something they can do hands on. As soon as I passed around gear they got all excited, they sure do love to touch stuff!

Hope everyone gets to climb this weekend!

Tuesday, November 15, 2011

Selfish or Selfless: Making the Choice

This past weekend I had the wonderful opportunity of taking out a Co-Ed Venture Crew associated with the Boys Scouts of America. I was one of four people guiding the group to a safe fun filled Saturday of climbing at Crowders Mountain State Park in North Carolina.
Venture Crew 312 

This was what I considered my Selfless day of climbing. I belayed most of the day but also had the opportunity to show an eager lad a bit of Trad climbing as he followed and cleaned my lead on Caterpillar (5.7). I am always happy to show aspiring climbers a thing or two about one of my passions in life.
Caterpillar (5.7)

When it was all said and done I had met a fella from Austin, Texas that was climbing around the North East while working on the road. I met a couple from Atlanta, Georgia that were climbing with their six year old son and were going to spend another day at Crowders on Sunday. Seeing as I was climbing on Sunday with my family (Nicole and Ava) I decided to invite my new found friends and show them some of the lesser known areas at Crowders.

Venture Crew 312 


I also had plans to give a solid go on my project at RED WALL, Fashion(5.12b). I figured I could put up some ropes and let them all get worn out before I got to work.  It seems to me that when I plan on doing something, I almost always have to make last minute improvisations.

Ava Crushing!

As we hiked up the front side of Crowders by the Resurgence Walls I had to take note of how tired everyone was becoming. I vetoed my original plan to hike all the way to RED WALL and took a detour to TRUNDLASAURAUS WALL. Their are a hand full of easy climbs if you have the natural anchor know how.
Nicole and Ava











I was suppose to have my Selfish day on Sunday and work on my project and tick some other routes on my ticklist but instead I made the choice, to be selfless instead of selfish. I figured I usually make it out to Crowders every weekend and I wanted to show my new found out-of-town friends a good time. Since the other areas are fairly easy to find I wanted to take them somewhere they would have a hard time finding on their own.

I recently got a message from a friend that proved to me that what I do is worth not be selfish.


Bjarni Magnusson
Hey man, 

Couldn't make it to last trip unfortunately because I have moved to San Diego, CA. I want to thank you for inviting me on all these climbing trips and showing me the ropes (pun intended). I really appreciate it man. The world would definitely  be a better place if there were more people like you who are willing to show new people how to climb and don't just stick with their group. If you are ever interested in crushing some rocks out in southern CA then hit me up! You'll have a couch to crash on.



Bjarni Magnusson


When I moved to Columbia, South Carolina and had no one to take me out anymore I made the choice to buy gear. I taught myself, with the help of books and advice from others, to lead climb, set up Top-Ropes, Rappel, set-up natural anchors and to do all the things that I had taken advantage of in Idaho. I realized that "You don't know what you have until it's gone."

Belayed Gratification and Palmetto Pebble Wrestlers

Don't get me wrong, there were people at Stronghold Athletic Club that I kept bugging about their next trip  being scheduled but to this day they are still very selective of who they invite.  Some people just don't want to share the experience of ROCKING out with others.

I am quite the opposite. I started a Columbia Outdoor Rock Climbing Club by the name of "Belayed Gratification and Palmetto Pebble Wrestlers" in order to share my climbing experiences with others. Passing on my passion of climbing to others that are eager to learn is very gratifying to me. I love to see people's 'light bulbs' turn on when they climb and receive feedback.

One Rope, Two Routes.
I balance climbing hard and guiding 'newbies' so that I can have the best of both worlds. I figure that the more people I teach, the more climbing partners I have to choose from when I need someone to play with on the mountains. Also, I know what it is like to be the one wanting to learn with no one willing to take the time to teach me.

I also love the challenge of taking on a big group of people of all different levels and trying to get them all worn out by the end of our climbing session. I've been on outdoor trips where you do more waiting than climbing and that can definitely be a put off to climbing with parties of ten and up. I try to have knowledge of big group areas so that I can put multiple ropes up on Top Rope or up to two routes per rope.  This way you have the 'Indoor Gym' feel to climbing outside.

Some disagree with this method because you take up most of a climbing area, but I make sure to inform people wanting to get on the routes with our ropes that we are willing to share.

Leading Fashion (5.12b)
The next time you see someone in the gym that is an eager beginner and wants to learn, take the time to 'pay it forward' and ask them to join you on your next climbing excursion. You never know what new friends you will make. Think back to when you first started climbing and wanted to 'learn the ropes'.

It's our responsibility as advanced climbers to give back to the sport by teaching less knowledgeable climbers how to safely have an awesome time climbing outside. I know from experience that there are a lot of wrong ways of doing things but if you don't stop and take the time to offer guidance then things won't change.

Stoked after the send.
Not every adventure needs to be all about sending the hardest. If you take the time to teach, help a someone in need of assistance, or take a day off of crushing in order to give someone else a day of crushing at their level then I can assure you that you will feel just as good as sending that elusive Project.


Who knows, maybe you'll get as lucky as I did last Sunday and get the opportunity to give others a day of awesome climbing AND also send your Project. On a side note, as I was mid-crux of Fashion (5.12b) I was reminded to have a little fun. I don't know if you have ever watch Yo Gabba Gabba! but my daughter was ready to go so Nicole was distracting her with Netflix on the phone. This is what I got to enjoy as I crushed.



Until next CLIMB!

Wednesday, November 9, 2011

Learning to Fly.

Caroline Stallworth making quick work of Opinionated.
So I don't know about most of you but I myself do not like to fall! It is my weakness, and has always been. I've read Arno Ilgner's book the Rock Warriors Way and have had some practice in the gym. Not enough apparently because I still dread the idea of the FALL.

I warmed up by leading Opinionated(5.9+), Onsighting/Free Soloing Red Wall Chimney(5.3) to take pictures of my lady friends climbing Opinionated. The Gimp(5.10d) and Master Beta(5.10c) were the next leads to go down before Fashion(5.12b). After a clean attempt of Fashion (5.12b) on Top Rope, I lowered down to the crux of the climb not satisfied with my beta. After deciding for a little hand swapping here and there I felt I was ready.  Turns out that thinking you got things dialed and that you aren't going to fall isn't always enough.

Unnecessary heel hook on The Gimp 


As I climbed to the second bolt on Fashion(5.12b) I readied myself for the meat of the climb. A few controlled breaths and I was moving through the crux... until I froze mentally. I couldn't move and I was tensing up. My belayer could tell and she tried to calm me. I stupidly just threw for the good crimp and then came my embarrassing high pitch Mexican yell. Some like to refer to it as a girl scream but I feel it doesn't do the ladies justice. Besides, it's not my fault I was born with the genetics to give a good Mariachi yell. !ARRIBA!

Rosemary Jeanne Carnes styles Opinionated .

I fell a good distance but I was fine to say the least. Unfortunately, I should have prepared my belay for the worst. My poor belayer's leg got scrapped up from skidding a short distance towards the first bolt (we anchored her in for the second and third attempt).  It was good falling experience that had me shaken up. I pulled the rope and went for the second attempt but couldn't manage to snag the Redpoint. Being fatigued and mentally shaken, I gave out much sooner than the first time.

Caroline Stallworth takes a moment to exhale on The Gimp (5.10d)






I hung out by the second bolt trying to figure out a new plan of attack. With my energy sapped I knew the Redpoint was not likely.  I calmed myself and tried to come up with a new plan of attack. I threw out all the beta I had worked and decided to stand up and cross into the next hold. It flowed smooth through my body like clockwork and I felt slightly silly for not thinking of this beta before hand. My tunnel vision had me wanting to use the awesome side-pull that I never even needed.


Rosemary Jeanne Carnes on Master Beta (5.10c) 
I chose to let go of my Redpoint desires for the day and let it come to me on my next trip (hopefully this upcoming Sunday 11-13-2011). It will be the third weekend trip that I've dedicated to dialing this bad boy and if I happen to get the Redpoint for Fashion(5.12b) I'm going to attempt Fashion Direct which used to be the easier (5.11d) starting variation but due to a hold breaking it has come to a consensus that it may be a (5.12c/d) start into the (5.12b) crux of Fashion. Basically, it is two boulder problems stacked on each other with a meager rest in between. Sounds like my cup of tea!

Caroline Stallworth takes in the view on Master Beta  (5.10c)










Good luck to all you crushers working on your projects. Maybe one day we will attain that 'Baller Status'. Until next climb!

Check out more pictures here.

Tuesday, November 1, 2011

Forget Experience, Give Them What They Want - NUMBERS!

My aspirations are to finish climbing everything under 5.10 at Crowders Mountain State Park by the end of this year. At this point it isn't going to happen because I've been hired to dance in two different ballet productions of 'The Nutcracker'. One with Orangburg Civic Ballet in Orangburg, Sought Carolina and the other with Griffin Ballet Theater in Griffin, Georgia.

I'm finding it hard because a lot of the "easier" routes are kept traditional or Trad, meaning that you have to place your own gear for protection. Not a lot of people climb these Trad lines (literally lines or cracks because they accept climbing gear easily) therefore a lot of these lines still have a lot of loose, brittle, sharp, rock. I've recently learned that a lot of these routes may have been done Top-Rope. The ethic, 'rules', or 'guide lines' in the earlier years wasn't as developed so they didn't pay attention to aided First Ascent, top-roped First Ascent, etc...

The high traffic Top-Rope areas have been 'cleaned-off' so to speak due to rubber shoes, boy scout troops and easy access to bolted anchors.

A traditional climber must be well versed not only in gear placement but also in anchor building because most of the trad climbs do not contain bolted anchors. An anchor assembled from gear or near by boulders must be arranged.

What I've discovered over the course of my attempt to climb these "easier" routes is that the climbing is straight forward but the 'head games' play a more active role. When you fall due to a hold breaking off the wall, your 'trust' in the rock changes a bit.

Since my fall on Middle Finger (5.7) due to a hold breaking, I've been placing gear closer together, testing rock holds more thoroughly to the point of almost wearing myself out, and I am more hesitant to put my full weight on any solid looking holds.

I'm also finding that the climbing community puts more emphasis on 'hard' routes. Not much respect is gained from climbing a multitude of 'easier' routes.  I feel that much can be said for the experience gained from easier routes, especially Traditional routes.

I myself have climbed a handful of 5.12 routes with only one being a mixed route (requires some gear but has some bolts for protection).  Although these 'harder' routes were challenging, they were straight forward with the protection - clip a quickdraw into a bolt hanger and then clip your rope into the quickdraw. On a traditional route you have to find your protection with in the wall and place the gear or choose to not place gear in order to minimize your pump/muscle burn.

I am wondering if I should just give up on my project and follow the climbing community trend. That would require getting on nothing lower than (5.10).  Then maybe people wouldn't give me a puzzled look when I tell them that I am trying to climb everything at Crowders under (5.10).

Just to test my theory, I am now going to work backwards on my goals. I'm going to climb the hardest first and work my way down to the mentally hard 'easy' traditional routes, I need the mental break from the choss.

With that said, I started working Fashion Direct (5.12b) at Crowders Mountain State Park on top rope. Thanks to Robert Hutchins for the tall man beta that helped me with my short man beta. Once I send this on lead I'm going to keep doing it for training and then I'm going for the Onsight of Welcome to Crowders (5.12a) and TKO (5.12a).  Even if I don't get the onsight for these 12's I'll be happy with working them and checking them off the tick list.

A lot of people that know me personally know that I train for onsighting. Several have told me that I may be hurting my experience because I won't hop on everything in sight.  I want to save some routes for the onsight because I feel like anyone can send anything with a little hard work, but once you get on a route that feeling of not knowing goes away and some of the mental experience diminishes. I'm picky about this because unfortunately I have to drive two hours to the nearest crag. I would hate to lose all that valuable (to me) onsight experience.

I want to end with asking you what you value more? Hard numbers? Developing your experience with easy routes? What motivates you? Should we all work hard routes, carry stick clips, veto valuable experience that develops mental strength? Am I the only silly one that wants to do it like the old days and work my experience 'pyramid' from the ground up? Anyway, thanks for reading.

Tuesday, September 20, 2011

Friday the 16th @ Crowders : Middle Finger, 'Pinky Pillar', and Stupid Roof

Middle Finger (5.7) on Middle Finger Wall
Last friday after Redpointing Middle Finger (5.7) I proceeded to look at the rest of Middle Finger Wall and since my partner didn't want to follow any of the climbs I decided we should go climb the Unknown Pillar (Pinky Pillar) cliff left of  Middle Finger Wall.


Pinky Pillar is in front of Two Pitch Wall also known as the backside of Car Wall.


I lead three of the variations and top roped the fourth. I would say that there are three distinct routes on this twenty five foot pillar.

After my partner left to run errands, I walked around, took some pictures, and eventually bumped into some climbers trying to navigate Crowders and asked if I could join them for the rest of the day.

Top of Unknown Pillar (Pinky Pillar)
They were trying to get on something 'easier' and they asked if I could set up Caterpillar (5.7). I tried to warn these ladies that most beginning climbers found it harder than (5.7) because of the full body climbing involved. Stemming, pressing, mantling, face climbing, crack climbing, you name it and you can probably do it on Caterpillar (5.7).

After letting them fail around for a bit I asked if I could move them to something easier. They agreed but wanted me to climb it first. I told them to meet me on the Davids Castle Backside right of the crack on The Nose (5.5).

They top-roped as I prepared myself mentally for another chossy traditional climb. Stupid Roof (5.10) is located down and right of Davids Castle Backside and rarely do I see or hear of anybody climbing it. This climb was a little intimidating, especially not knowing anything about the route or even what side of the roof I was suppose to be climbing. I figured I would see the 'fixed piton' under the roof that was described in the Thomas Kelley guide book.
Bottom of Unknown Pillar (Pinky Pillar)

It is one thing to climb with someone all the time and trust them with your life. It is another thing to climb with someone you have just met and trust THEM with your life. Usually you try and climb routes well below your climbing ability when climbing with a new partner so you can get better acquainted. This would be the second person this day that I would be trusting my life with, that I had just met.

Stupid Roof (5.10) 
This route would not be a bad route if it wasn't for the lack of traffic. Because nobody climbs Stupid Roof (5.10) it still has a lot of sharp, brittle, holds. In fact I almost fell again due to a breaking hold. I'm going to try and get some top rope action on this route and the face next to it and see if I can get my crew to clean it up.

The lady climbers were very appreciative and told me that I should make a guide book. I let them know that a friend of mine was in the process of making a guide book for the Piedmont Area and that I was in the process of updating Crowders Mountain State Park on the website Mountain Project.

Over all it was a good day of climbing and fun to meet new people.