Linville Crush

Robert Hutchins leads Pump On Demand

 There is a place that I've been to only three times. It is a hush hush place that is still in the process of being developed. I met Robert Hutchins and he allowed me the privilege to climb at this area with him and his fellow developers. The main area that we climbed at is referred to as The Hole

I met Wade Parker whom I knew through climbing a route he established at Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina. I had respect for Wade before I even met him because of his wonderful contribution to my climbing experience. He and I hit it off right away and plan on climbing together in the future. It is nice that he lives near Crowders Mountain State Park where I spend most of my time training.

It was going to be the three of us but we were pleasantly surprised when we found out that Tim Fisher would be joining us. Tim Fisher is one of the early developers at Moore's Wall. Fisher is known for his staunch ground-up ethic where he only bolts when necessary and engineers other forms of fixed protection. This ethic can be regarded as a dying art, for it is now common practice to rappel off a cliff and add bolts every 10-15ft. North Carolina in general is known for the groundup hardman(and hardwoman) style of climbing.

Wade Parker and Robert Hutchins

Hutchins parked his Off Road Xterra into the pull off and announced that Tim Snyder was at The Hole too. Snyder was at The Hole the first time I met him and had a very impressive day then. I was excited we were going to be sharing the cliff with him as well.

Scoping out Feature Presentation 

I led the hike in to see if I could remember where the Home Theater (first main climbing area) is located. The hike in is mostly down hill and provides for a good warm-up prior to climbing. Wade allowed me the honor of onsighting a (5.9) traditional warm-up and I returned the favor by getting him on what I consider the area classic (5.9) warm-up. Then it was time for business but not before we watched Robert put up Pump On Demand (5.12) an over-hung mixed route.

Robert at the halfway point of Pump On Demand

I geared up and tried to send Lactic Bubble Bath(5.11) but failed at the crimpy technical crux. I am positive I'll send it on my next visit and I am proud of my progress on this long sustained traditional masterpiece of a route. Fisher thought it would be good training for me to get on Pump On Demand (5.12) while I was tired. Since I had done Pump clean on Top Rope on both my visits prior, I deemed Fisher's challenge a good idea.  It had been a while since I had come off a route because of overpump. I was positive I could hold on as I tried to clip but I slid right off. After two more takes I reached the anchor and lowered down.

Tim Snyder did us the honor of putting up another Home Theater classic, Feature Presentation (5.11) mixed.    I took a small break and watched Snyder, Wade, and Robert climb Feature Presentation. I remembered where I had trouble on this route on my first visit and gathered more beta to put together a plan of attack for my Top Rope bid.

To everyone's surprise, including myself, I sent Feature Presentation on top rope clean while removing the gear as well. This route felt a lot more feasible than the first time I attempted it on top rope. It is on the to send list for the next trip for sure.

I gathered my stuff and prepared myself for what I remembered to be the toughest part of the day. The hike out! The first time I climbed at the hole I had to literally crawl out on all four. It was the most exhausted I had ever been on a climbing trip. I vowed never to get spanked on this hike again and I now attack the hike at Crowders with the intention to dominant The Hole hike in. My hard work was noted by Fisher himself. I'm sure it was because my pack was lighter.

It was an incredible day spent with people I rarely get to climb with. Quality climb instead of quantity climb ;-)  Until next climb!