Learning to Fly.

Caroline Stallworth making quick work of Opinionated.

So I don't know about most of you but I myself do not like to fall! It is my weakness, and has always been. I've read Arno Ilgner's book the Rock Warriors Way and have had some practice in the gym. Not enough apparently because I still dread the idea of the FALL.

I warmed up by leading Opinionated(5.9+), Onsighting/Free Soloing Red Wall Chimney(5.3) to take pictures of my lady friends climbing Opinionated. The Gimp(5.10d) and Master Beta(5.10c) were the next leads to go down before Fashion(5.12b). After a clean attempt of Fashion (5.12b) on Top Rope, I lowered down to the crux of the climb not satisfied with my beta. After deciding for a little hand swapping here and there I felt I was ready.  Turns out that thinking you got things dialed and that you aren't going to fall isn't always enough.

Unnecessary heel hook on The Gimp 

As I climbed to the second bolt on Fashion(5.12b) I readied myself for the meat of the climb. A few controlled breaths and I was moving through the crux... until I froze mentally. I couldn't move and I was tensing up. My belayer could tell and she tried to calm me. I stupidly just threw for the good crimp and then came my embarrassing high pitch Mexican yell. Some like to refer to it as a girl scream but I feel it doesn't do the ladies justice. Besides, it's not my fault I was born with the genetics to give a good Mariachi yell. !ARRIBA!

Rosemary Jeanne Carnes styles Opinionated .

I fell a good distance but I was fine to say the least. Unfortunately, I should have prepared my belay for the worst. My poor belayer's leg got scrapped up from skidding a short distance towards the first bolt (we anchored her in for the second and third attempt).  It was good falling experience that had me shaken up. I pulled the rope and went for the second attempt but couldn't manage to snag the Redpoint. Being fatigued and mentally shaken, I gave out much sooner than the first time.

Caroline Stallworth takes a moment to exhale on The Gimp (5.10d)

I hung out by the second bolt trying to figure out a new plan of attack. With my energy sapped I knew the Redpoint was not likely.  I calmed myself and tried to come up with a new plan of attack. I threw out all the beta I had worked and decided to stand up and cross into the next hold. It flowed smooth through my body like clockwork and I felt slightly silly for not thinking of this beta before hand. My tunnel vision had me wanting to use the awesome side-pull that I never even needed.

Rosemary Jeanne Carnes on Master Beta (5.10c) 

I chose to let go of my Redpoint desires for the day and let it come to me on my next trip (hopefully this upcoming Sunday 11-13-2011). It will be the third weekend trip that I've dedicated to dialing this bad boy and if I happen to get the Redpoint for Fashion(5.12b) I'm going to attempt Fashion Direct which used to be the easier (5.11d) starting variation but due to a hold breaking it has come to a consensus that it may be a (5.12c/d) start into the (5.12b) crux of Fashion. Basically, it is two boulder problems stacked on each other with a meager rest in between. Sounds like my cup of tea!

Caroline Stallworth takes in the view on Master Beta  (5.10c)

Good luck to all you crushers working on your projects. Maybe one day we will attain that 'Baller Status'. Until next climb!

Check out more pictures here.