Two Dudes on Two Pitch...

Rappelling off of Secret Service (5.10) on Two Pitch Wall (rope was in the tree).

After my shift on Saturday morning, I met up with Kenny Johns from Columbia, SC to climb at... you guessed it, Crowders Mountain State Park, North Carolina. I was intent on climbing some less traveled traditional climbs.

Hiking up the Backside trail is a great way to get warmed up for your first climb of the day and as we arrived at Two Pitch Wall I asked Kenny if he wanted to lead the first pitch. It was a big deal because Kenny hadn't lead anything traditionally but had experience cleaning routes to learning how to place and remove gear. I could tell Kenny was anxious. With good reason, he asked questions like, "Any words of wisdom?" "Can we talk about the anchor again?" "How do I belay you up there?"

Kenny leads his first Trad climb Two Pitch!

Kenny did a great job leading the first pitch of Two Pitch (5.4), his first traditional route. He also surprised me with three awesome nut placements as well as having all solid pieces. Good job Kenny!  He had some trouble with the anchor and something inside me said that I could free solo this route anyway. So, I did!

It was my first time climbing this route so I studied it carefully from the ground and prepared myself mentally with a couple of deep breaths. As I started climbing, I cleared my head and focused on climbing smooth, safe, efficiently, and I reminded myself to breathe.  

The first pitch of Two Pitch(5.4) has some challenging moments but has good gear options throughout the whole route. My favorite part of the climb was the near the top of the first pitch because it had some great had  jams and was heady with no protection.

Kenny and I built an anchor and I led Eat A Peach(5.7). This diagonal crack is super exciting with exposure and well protected through the crux. Jugs lent themselves to me as I placed gear and pulled the small overhang at the end of the crack. The climbing mellows out but the rock quality becomes less inspiring. This route is a great introduction to multi-pitch climbing and has some great crack climbing sections.

Kenny and I  hiked down debating what route to do next. We decided he would lead the first pitch again and set up an anchor and I would lead the second pitch of Two Pitch(5.4). This route offered great gear options, fun exposed climbing and wasn't too chossy(bad quality rock).

Kenny finishing the first pitch of Two Pitch

After climbing to the top of Two Pitch we rappelled off the backside into what's known as Car Wall.  I led the traditional route Entertainment For Men (5.9).  It was a good short route that was fairly sustained with good gear options. This wall doesn't see a lot of action because it is fairly hidden and has only one sport climb/top rope set up.


This was the end  to a fabulous day at Crowders and the exciting part was that I was coming back the next day!

To be continued...