Friday the 16th @ Crowders : Middle Finger, 'Pinky Pillar', and Stupid Roof

Middle Finger (5.7) on Middle Finger Wall

Last friday after Redpointing Middle Finger (5.7) I proceeded to look at the rest of Middle Finger Wall and since my partner didn't want to follow any of the climbs I decided we should go climb the Unknown Pillar (Pinky Pillar) cliff left of  Middle Finger Wall.


Pinky Pillar is in front of Two Pitch Wall also known as the backside of Car Wall.


I lead three of the variations and top roped the fourth. I would say that there are three distinct routes on this twenty five foot pillar.

After my partner left to run errands, I walked around, took some pictures, and eventually bumped into some climbers trying to navigate Crowders and asked if I could join them for the rest of the day.

Top of Unknown Pillar (Pinky Pillar)

They were trying to get on something 'easier' and they asked if I could set up Caterpillar (5.7). I tried to warn these ladies that most beginning climbers found it harder than (5.7) because of the full body climbing involved. Stemming, pressing, mantling, face climbing, crack climbing, you name it and you can probably do it on Caterpillar (5.7).

After letting them fail around for a bit I asked if I could move them to something easier. They agreed but wanted me to climb it first. I told them to meet me on the Davids Castle Backside right of the crack on The Nose (5.5).

They top-roped as I prepared myself mentally for another chossy traditional climb. Stupid Roof (5.10) is located down and right of Davids Castle Backside and rarely do I see or hear of anybody climbing it. This climb was a little intimidating, especially not knowing anything about the route or even what side of the roof I was suppose to be climbing. I figured I would see the 'fixed piton' under the roof that was described in the Thomas Kelley guide book.

Bottom of Unknown Pillar (Pinky Pillar)

It is one thing to climb with someone all the time and trust them with your life. It is another thing to climb with someone you have just met and trust THEM with your life. Usually you try and climb routes well below your climbing ability when climbing with a new partner so you can get better acquainted. This would be the second person this day that I would be trusting my life with, that I had just met.

Stupid Roof (5.10) 

This route would not be a bad route if it wasn't for the lack of traffic. Because nobody climbs Stupid Roof (5.10) it still has a lot of sharp, brittle, holds. In fact I almost fell again due to a breaking hold. I'm going to try and get some top rope action on this route and the face next to it and see if I can get my crew to clean it up.

The lady climbers were very appreciative and told me that I should make a guide book. I let them know that a friend of mine was in the process of making a guide book for the Piedmont Area and that I was in the process of updating Crowders Mountain State Park on the website Mountain Project.

Over all it was a good day of climbing and fun to meet new people.