After working all night at UPS and getting home at 4:30am, I woke up at 6:30am with Nicole and Ava. We dropped Ava off at her babysitter's house and headed to Round Top Elementary School where Nicole teaches Dance Education. I was asked to come share a hobby at the Hobby Fair so of course I chose Climbing (I thought about including ballet, kayaking, and skateboarding but you only get about a minute with 5-10 children at a time).
Luck Table #13
I set up my table and got ready to go. Some of my favorite highlights are:
"Hey guys this is a Carabiner."
A Carabiner
"What do you think you call a Carabiner that locks?" Blank stares... so I tell them "a Locking Carabiner!"
Locking Carabiner
"What do you think you call a Carabiner that locks automatically?" Blank stares again. I ask,"Any guesses?" No response. "An Auto-Locking Carabiner!"
Auto-Locking Carabiner
I would ask them as they came up to my table, " So what do you guys think I do?"
Answers, "You make stuff!"
"You fly!"
"You go hiking!"
"Mountain Climbing!"
"Kayaking!" (really? I wondered about this child)
"You do things!"
"What do you guys think that bag on the back of my harness is for?"
Answers, "For Snacks"
"Water bottle holder"
"For things"
"I'll give you a hint. See the white stuff around the edges? Gymnasts use it."
Answers, "Grip stuff"
"Chalk"
"Tights" (too funny)
To me children are funny to have a conversation with because sometimes they grasp and understand what you are telling them but some of them don't have a clue... but you give them the benefit of the doubt because they are children right?
It was also Dress Like Your Favorite Book Character Day. Here is Nicole as her favorite book character - Fancy Nancy.
All and all I had a great time but I realized that next time (if there is a next time) I need to come up with something they can do hands on. As soon as I passed around gear they got all excited, they sure do love to touch stuff!
This past weekend I had the wonderful opportunity of taking out a Co-Ed Venture Crew associated with the Boys Scouts of America. I was one of four people guiding the group to a safe fun filled Saturday of climbing at Crowders Mountain State Park in North Carolina.
Venture Crew 312
This was what I considered my Selfless day of climbing. I belayed most of the day but also had the opportunity to show an eager lad a bit of Trad climbing as he followed and cleaned my lead on Caterpillar (5.7). I am always happy to show aspiring climbers a thing or two about one of my passions in life.
Caterpillar (5.7)
When it was all said and done I had met a fella from Austin, Texas that was climbing around the North East while working on the road. I met a couple from Atlanta, Georgia that were climbing with their six year old son and were going to spend another day at Crowders on Sunday. Seeing as I was climbing on Sunday with my family (Nicole and Ava) I decided to invite my new found friends and show them some of the lesser known areas at Crowders.
Venture Crew 312
I also had plans to give a solid go on my project at RED WALL, Fashion(5.12b). I figured I could put up some ropes and let them all get worn out before I got to work. It seems to me that when I plan on doing something, I almost always have to make last minute improvisations.
Ava Crushing!
As we hiked up the front side of Crowders by the Resurgence Walls I had to take note of how tired everyone was becoming. I vetoed my original plan to hike all the way to RED WALL and took a detour to TRUNDLASAURAUS WALL. Their are a hand full of easy climbs if you have the natural anchor know how.
Nicole and Ava
I was suppose to have my Selfish day on Sunday and work on my project and tick some other routes on my ticklist but instead I made the choice, to be selfless instead of selfish. I figured I usually make it out to Crowders every weekend and I wanted to show my new found out-of-town friends a good time. Since the other areas are fairly easy to find I wanted to take them somewhere they would have a hard time finding on their own.
I recently got a message from a friend that proved to me that what I do is worth not be selfish.
Bjarni Magnusson
Hey man,
Couldn't make it to last trip unfortunately because I have moved to San Diego, CA. I want to thank you for inviting me on all these climbing trips and showing me the ropes (pun intended). I really appreciate it man. The world would definitely be a better place if there were more people like you who are willing to show new people how to climb and don't just stick with their group. If you are ever interested in crushing some rocks out in southern CA then hit me up! You'll have a couch to crash on.
Bjarni Magnusson
When I moved to Columbia, South Carolina and had no one to take me out anymore I made the choice to buy gear. I taught myself, with the help of books and advice from others, to lead climb, set up Top-Ropes, Rappel, set-up natural anchors and to do all the things that I had taken advantage of in Idaho. I realized that "You don't know what you have until it's gone."
Don't get me wrong, there were people at Stronghold Athletic Club that I kept bugging about their next trip being scheduled but to this day they are still very selective of who they invite. Some people just don't want to share the experience of ROCKING out with others.
I am quite the opposite. I started a Columbia Outdoor Rock Climbing Club by the name of "Belayed Gratification and Palmetto Pebble Wrestlers" in order to share my climbing experiences with others. Passing on my passion of climbing to others that are eager to learn is very gratifying to me. I love to see people's 'light bulbs' turn on when they climb and receive feedback.
One Rope, Two Routes.
I balance climbing hard and guiding 'newbies' so that I can have the best of both worlds. I figure that the more people I teach, the more climbing partners I have to choose from when I need someone to play with on the mountains. Also, I know what it is like to be the one wanting to learn with no one willing to take the time to teach me.
I also love the challenge of taking on a big group of people of all different levels and trying to get them all worn out by the end of our climbing session. I've been on outdoor trips where you do more waiting than climbing and that can definitely be a put off to climbing with parties of ten and up. I try to have knowledge of big group areas so that I can put multiple ropes up on Top Rope or up to two routes per rope. This way you have the 'Indoor Gym' feel to climbing outside.
Some disagree with this method because you take up most of a climbing area, but I make sure to inform people wanting to get on the routes with our ropes that we are willing to share.
Leading Fashion (5.12b)
The next time you see someone in the gym that is an eager beginner and wants to learn, take the time to 'pay it forward' and ask them to join you on your next climbing excursion. You never know what new friends you will make. Think back to when you first started climbing and wanted to 'learn the ropes'.
It's our responsibility as advanced climbers to give back to the sport by teaching less knowledgeable climbers how to safely have an awesome time climbing outside. I know from experience that there are a lot of wrong ways of doing things but if you don't stop and take the time to offer guidance then things won't change.
Stoked after the send.
Not every adventure needs to be all about sending the hardest. If you take the time to teach, help a someone in need of assistance, or take a day off of crushing in order to give someone else a day of crushing at their level then I can assure you that you will feel just as good as sending that elusive Project.
Who knows, maybe you'll get as lucky as I did last Sunday and get the opportunity to give others a day of awesome climbing AND also send your Project. On a side note, as I was mid-crux of Fashion (5.12b) I was reminded to have a little fun. I don't know if you have ever watch Yo Gabba Gabba! but my daughter was ready to go so Nicole was distracting her with Netflix on the phone. This is what I got to enjoy as I crushed.
Caroline Stallworth making quick work of Opinionated.
So I don't know about most of you but I myself do not like to fall! It is my weakness, and has always been. I've read Arno Ilgner's book the Rock Warriors Way and have had some practice in the gym. Not enough apparently because I still dread the idea of the FALL.
I warmed up by leading Opinionated(5.9+), Onsighting/Free Soloing Red Wall Chimney(5.3) to take pictures of my lady friends climbing Opinionated. The Gimp(5.10d) and Master Beta(5.10c) were the next leads to go down before Fashion(5.12b). After a clean attempt of Fashion (5.12b) on Top Rope, I lowered down to the crux of the climb not satisfied with my beta. After deciding for a little hand swapping here and there I felt I was ready. Turns out that thinking you got things dialed and that you aren't going to fall isn't always enough.
Unnecessary heel hook on The Gimp
As I climbed to the second bolt on Fashion(5.12b) I readied myself for the meat of the climb. A few controlled breaths and I was moving through the crux... until I froze mentally. I couldn't move and I was tensing up. My belayer could tell and she tried to calm me. I stupidly just threw for the good crimp and then came my embarrassing high pitch Mexican yell. Some like to refer to it as a girl scream but I feel it doesn't do the ladies justice. Besides, it's not my fault I was born with the genetics to give a good Mariachi yell. !ARRIBA!
Rosemary Jeanne Carnes styles Opinionated .
I fell a good distance but I was fine to say the least. Unfortunately, I should have prepared my belay for the worst. My poor belayer's leg got scrapped up from skidding a short distance towards the first bolt (we anchored her in for the second and third attempt). It was good falling experience that had me shaken up. I pulled the rope and went for the second attempt but couldn't manage to snag the Redpoint. Being fatigued and mentally shaken, I gave out much sooner than the first time.
Caroline Stallworth takes a moment to exhale on The Gimp (5.10d)
I hung out by the second bolt trying to figure out a new plan of attack. With my energy sapped I knew the Redpoint was not likely. I calmed myself and tried to come up with a new plan of attack. I threw out all the beta I had worked and decided to stand up and cross into the next hold. It flowed smooth through my body like clockwork and I felt slightly silly for not thinking of this beta before hand. My tunnel vision had me wanting to use the awesome side-pull that I never even needed.
Rosemary Jeanne Carnes on Master Beta (5.10c)
I chose to let go of my Redpoint desires for the day and let it come to me on my next trip (hopefully this upcoming Sunday 11-13-2011). It will be the third weekend trip that I've dedicated to dialing this bad boy and if I happen to get the Redpoint for Fashion(5.12b) I'm going to attempt Fashion Direct which used to be the easier (5.11d) starting variation but due to a hold breaking it has come to a consensus that it may be a (5.12c/d) start into the (5.12b) crux of Fashion. Basically, it is two boulder problems stacked on each other with a meager rest in between. Sounds like my cup of tea!
Caroline Stallworth takes in the view on Master Beta (5.10c)
Good luck to all you crushers working on your projects. Maybe one day we will attain that 'Baller Status'. Until next climb!
My aspirations are to finish climbing everything under 5.10 at Crowders Mountain State Park by the end of this year. At this point it isn't going to happen because I've been hired to dance in two different ballet productions of 'The Nutcracker'. One with Orangburg Civic Ballet in Orangburg, Sought Carolina and the other with Griffin Ballet Theater in Griffin, Georgia.
I'm finding it hard because a lot of the "easier" routes are kept traditional or Trad, meaning that you have to place your own gear for protection. Not a lot of people climb these Trad lines (literally lines or cracks because they accept climbing gear easily) therefore a lot of these lines still have a lot of loose, brittle, sharp, rock. I've recently learned that a lot of these routes may have been done Top-Rope. The ethic, 'rules', or 'guide lines' in the earlier years wasn't as developed so they didn't pay attention to aided First Ascent, top-roped First Ascent, etc...
The high traffic Top-Rope areas have been 'cleaned-off' so to speak due to rubber shoes, boy scout troops and easy access to bolted anchors.
A traditional climber must be well versed not only in gear placement but also in anchor building because most of the trad climbs do not contain bolted anchors. An anchor assembled from gear or near by boulders must be arranged.
What I've discovered over the course of my attempt to climb these "easier" routes is that the climbing is straight forward but the 'head games' play a more active role. When you fall due to a hold breaking off the wall, your 'trust' in the rock changes a bit.
Since my fall on Middle Finger (5.7) due to a hold breaking, I've been placing gear closer together, testing rock holds more thoroughly to the point of almost wearing myself out, and I am more hesitant to put my full weight on any solid looking holds.
I'm also finding that the climbing community puts more emphasis on 'hard' routes. Not much respect is gained from climbing a multitude of 'easier' routes. I feel that much can be said for the experience gained from easier routes, especially Traditional routes.
I myself have climbed a handful of 5.12 routes with only one being a mixed route (requires some gear but has some bolts for protection). Although these 'harder' routes were challenging, they were straight forward with the protection - clip a quickdraw into a bolt hanger and then clip your rope into the quickdraw. On a traditional route you have to find your protection with in the wall and place the gear or choose to not place gear in order to minimize your pump/muscle burn.
I am wondering if I should just give up on my project and follow the climbing community trend. That would require getting on nothing lower than (5.10). Then maybe people wouldn't give me a puzzled look when I tell them that I am trying to climb everything at Crowders under (5.10).
Just to test my theory, I am now going to work backwards on my goals. I'm going to climb the hardest first and work my way down to the mentally hard 'easy' traditional routes, I need the mental break from the choss.
With that said, I started working Fashion Direct (5.12b) at Crowders Mountain State Park on top rope. Thanks to Robert Hutchins for the tall man beta that helped me with my short man beta. Once I send this on lead I'm going to keep doing it for training and then I'm going for the Onsight of Welcome to Crowders (5.12a) and TKO (5.12a). Even if I don't get the onsight for these 12's I'll be happy with working them and checking them off the tick list.
A lot of people that know me personally know that I train for onsighting. Several have told me that I may be hurting my experience because I won't hop on everything in sight. I want to save some routes for the onsight because I feel like anyone can send anything with a little hard work, but once you get on a route that feeling of not knowing goes away and some of the mental experience diminishes. I'm picky about this because unfortunately I have to drive two hours to the nearest crag. I would hate to lose all that valuable (to me) onsight experience.
I want to end with asking you what you value more? Hard numbers? Developing your experience with easy routes? What motivates you? Should we all work hard routes, carry stick clips, veto valuable experience that develops mental strength? Am I the only silly one that wants to do it like the old days and work my experience 'pyramid' from the ground up? Anyway, thanks for reading.
Last friday after Redpointing Middle Finger (5.7) I proceeded to look at the rest of Middle Finger Wall and since my partner didn't want to follow any of the climbs I decided we should go climb the Unknown Pillar (Pinky Pillar) cliff left of Middle Finger Wall. Pinky Pillar is in front of Two Pitch Wall also known as the backside of Car Wall.
I lead three of the variations and top roped the fourth. I would say that there are three distinct routes on this twenty five foot pillar.
After my partner left to run errands, I walked around, took some pictures, and eventually bumped into some climbers trying to navigate Crowders and asked if I could join them for the rest of the day.
Top of Unknown Pillar (Pinky Pillar)
They were trying to get on something 'easier' and they asked if I could set up Caterpillar (5.7). I tried to warn these ladies that most beginning climbers found it harder than (5.7) because of the full body climbing involved. Stemming, pressing, mantling, face climbing, crack climbing, you name it and you can probably do it on Caterpillar (5.7).
After letting them fail around for a bit I asked if I could move them to something easier. They agreed but wanted me to climb it first. I told them to meet me on the Davids Castle Backside right of the crack on The Nose (5.5).
They top-roped as I prepared myself mentally for another chossy traditional climb. Stupid Roof (5.10) is located down and right of Davids Castle Backside and rarely do I see or hear of anybody climbing it. This climb was a little intimidating, especially not knowing anything about the route or even what side of the roof I was suppose to be climbing. I figured I would see the 'fixed piton' under the roof that was described in the Thomas Kelley guide book.
Bottom of Unknown Pillar (Pinky Pillar)
It is one thing to climb with someone all the time and trust them with your life. It is another thing to climb with someone you have just met and trust THEM with your life. Usually you try and climb routes well below your climbing ability when climbing with a new partner so you can get better acquainted. This would be the second person this day that I would be trusting my life with, that I had just met.
Stupid Roof (5.10)
This route would not be a bad route if it wasn't for the lack of traffic. Because nobody climbs Stupid Roof (5.10) it still has a lot of sharp, brittle, holds. In fact I almost fell again due to a breaking hold. I'm going to try and get some top rope action on this route and the face next to it and see if I can get my crew to clean it up.
The lady climbers were very appreciative and told me that I should make a guide book. I let them know that a friend of mine was in the process of making a guide book for the Piedmont Area and that I was in the process of updating Crowders Mountain State Park on the website Mountain Project.
Over all it was a good day of climbing and fun to meet new people.
Headed to Crowders Mountain State Park on Friday September 17th 2011 to see how many of the routes on Middle Finger Wall I can tick. I am a little nervous after my previous experience on Middle Finger (5.7) route. I had led the route about two thirds of the way up and as I grabbed the biggest looking part of a ledge, a piece the size of a small cantaloupe fell off and took me with it.
Middle Finger should be dubbed Bloody Finger.
Thankfully, my last piece off protection held (a #1 Red Black Diamond Camalot). I did manage to take a 15 foot fall. This is the biggest fall I have taken on lead and I fell past the red camalot, past a fixed pin, and past an equalized double nut placement. I conveniently landed next to a big ledge and upon inspection, I proceeded to climb with a small leg gash and a hole on my left pinky and right ring finger. I was scared when I started climbing again but I managed to get to the top and build an anchor in a 'bomber' horizontal crack.
After round two on the chossy Middle Finger route, I'm hoping to do the rest of the routes on Middle Finger Wall. Flexible Flyer (5.9+ R) I don't know how much I want to trust the less traveled rock on a 'Runout' route.
Saturday I'll be either be heading to Moore's Wall, Pilot Mountain or Crowders Mountain depending on my partner situation and the weather.
It's crazy how dedicated Columbia, South Carolina climbers have to be. Most of our group met at Stronghold Athletic Club at around 6 am to head to Crowders Mountain State Park. After a quick breakfast stop, we headed to the mountains.
Once in the parking lot,we gathered our gear as Erica Lineberry and her crew, Steven, Cragbaby, and Patrick, arrived. After our introductions, registration, and pit stops we were off!
Cragmama- Erica Lineberry on Right of Rawlhide (5.11+)
By the look of the parking lot, it was going to be a packed day. I hoped that because we were heading to the Resurgance Area, we would be avoiding some of the climber traffic. We climbed most of the day with only my friends from Crowders Mountain Climbing making a short stop at Rawlhide Wall and another party of two passing by.
Ethan Stevens on Unknown 5.8
We were informed, by the party of two, that the rest of the mountain was packed. And after walking from the Resurgance Area to Practice Wall (to locate two of my lost climbers) it was indeed true that the mountain was packed. Every wall I walked by had people on it.
Leading the classic Dewey Used to Love It (5.10)
Robert Keinzle onDewey Used to Love It (5.10)
It was still a little hot to be at the Resurgance Area in the morning but we were there mostly to show Erica around. Erica is currently working on a Piedmont Area Climbing guide which is going to include Crowders Mountain State Park. Check out the the facebook group Carolina Rocks: The Piedmont.
I put Erica's Crew on the area classics - Dewey Used To Love It,Plane Above Your Head, and Rawlhide as well as putting her on less traveled climbs.
I invited people from the Belayed Gratification and Palmetto Pebble Wrestlers club and at first I was worried about keeping everyone occupied. It turned out not to be a problem because we had climbers of all abilities and ages helping each other out.
Matthew Stevens on his first lead.
With so many climbs in a small area it is no surprise that we started and ended our day in the Resurgence Area. Robert Keinzle and I managed to clear part of a fallen tree that was blocking the prime belay spot for Cro-Magnon and Rawlhide. There are still a few downed trees that are blocking the vague trail from Rawlhide to the Tower Trail.
Lorikay Keinzle on Dewey Used to Love it (5.10)
I had a blast and I hope that I see more people out on the next outdoor climbing trip. Thanks to all!
Last Sunday I also had the privilege of meeting Scott Gilliam of the Carolina Climbers Coaliton. Scott is the one who actually led Mighty Mouse (5.11c) at Moore's Wall.
Picture of Mighty Mouse at Moore's Wall. (Not Scott - Picture from MountainProject.com)
Scott and his crew were very awesome down to earth people who were kind enough to let me finish up my day on their rope. Fisher and I got invited to Mi Pueblo and had some great tasting Mexican food with Scott, Stephanie, Susan, Tracy, Skinny, and Elsa (sorry about the misspelled names and/or if I left anyone out). Thank you guys for the awesome day and it really was a pleasure to might all of you or as they say in the south 'y'all'.
This weekend I have been invited to show Erica Lineberry (http://cragmama.com/) and her crew the less traveled routes and walls at Crowders Mountain State Park. I'm debating whether to pass on the love and give them a good hazing... just messin'. Erica is putting together a new guide book for the Piedmont area. If you want to stay updated or think you may have information about routes or areas, check out her Facebook group (http://www.facebook.com/groups/258109837538751/).
Carolina Rocks: The Piedmont
I noticed last Friday that there were a lot of downed trees and over grown shrubs taking over the already NOT very distinct trail to the Resurgence Area, so we might as well make it a party and do some trail clean up. I will also be taking pictures of anchors that need replacing for the upcoming Crowders Mountain Adopt-a-Crag (http://www.facebook.com/event.php?eid=100943766680514).
After climbing at Linville Gorge on Saturday I had asked the fellas (Eddie Medina, Robert Hutchins, and Tim Fisher) if they were going climbing on Sunday. Tim asked me where I was headed and I responded that I was probably headed to Pilot Mountain State Park so that I could find a random someone to climb with. Unless one of them wanted to climb some where.
Moore's Wall
Tim said that if I wanted to climb, that I should climb at Moore's Wall. I told him that I had only been there once with Robert and I didn't know the area well. He told me he would pick me up in the morning from Robert's house at eight am.
Eight am came awfully fast for a certain someone who made have had a little too much to drink the previous night. Luckily, that someone kept waking up dehydrated in the middle of the night and made sure to chug lots of water during several of those woken up moments.
It was fun getting to converse with Tim one on one on the way to Moore's Wall. Pick up a guide book with Moore's Wall in it and you'll be sure to learn a little about Tim Fisher, I did :-)
The previous night, Tim and Robert were trying to figure out which route to haze me on. However, on Sunday Tim decided to veto the original haze and hazed me instead with a good old fashioned sand bagged route which he told me was (5.7).
Funny because on the way to Air Show (5.8+) we bumped into a couple of his old friends. They asked where we were going and Tim told them that he was taking me to Air Show. As they walked away one of them said, "...that's a great 5.5". I retorted, "Is everyone in on the hazing?" That fella's name was Sandy. After we bumped into him again on the way back to the North Side of Moore's Wall, I told Sandy that he would now be referred to as 'Sandy Bags'. So if you ever run into a guy named Sandy at Moore's Wall, be wary of asking him for information.
It was all in good fun. Besides, in my mind, Tim already told me it was a 5.7 (I didn't actually know what it was rated until Tim told me after we climbed it that it was (5.8+). Didn't matter what it was rated, because Air Show is such a beautiful, well protected, exposed, climb. Definitely a Classic.
At the base of the climb Tim said, "Place nuts when you can and save some bigger cams towards the top". He later said that my two cam placements were the sketchiest of all my placements and that it was funny because the rest of my pieces were nuts.
As we scrambled down a 5.3/5.5 route, we were met half-way by a couple of climbers on their way up. They asked us if we knew where to rappel from. Tim smiled and said that we were just scrabbling down. They looked shocked to say the least.
We continued our day by heading to the north end. Tim said he was going to take it easy but apparently our definition of easy is different because he led Nevermore (5.11b), Vascular Disaster (5.11b/c) and then had to top rope VD again to remove a brass nut that I had failed to retrieve. I tried to remove that thing for what seemed like 15 minutes. Tim took it out first yank...I apparently don't have enough following experience.
I top-roped Nevermore and Vascular Disaster with no falls, but as punishment for my lack of cleaning skills I was told I had to down climb VD. Of course they were joking but I did it anyway, at least until I fell on the boulder start. I finished my day by top-roping and cleaning Mighty Mouse (5.11c), also with no falls. All of these climbs were amazing and I look forward to someday leading them.
Overall, I had an amazing Labor day weekend. Friday at Crowders, Saturday at Linville Gorge, and Sunday at Moore's Wall. I hope everyone reading this also got to make some amazing memories this weekend.
Saturday I spent the day at Linville Gorge climbing with Eddie Medina, Robert Hutchins, and Tim Fisher. If you don't know who these men are then I suggest you stop climbing... just kidding.
Eddie Medina wondering when he going to get his afternoon siesta.
Pick up any guide book to North Carolina and you're bound to stumble onto Tim's name and the many First Ascents he has contributed and is still contributing through out the southeast. Robert is currently putting up First Ascents like it's his job with Tim. Eddie Medina is heavily involved with the Carolina Climbers Coalition and is always working with state parks in order to keep a working relationship with park rangers and climbers.
Climbing Freddy Krueger.
Their style of climbing is very aesthetic to me because the routes they put up (ground up) are very much the movement quality that I enjoy, full body climbing involving different disciplines of our art. Crack climbing techniques, stemming, mantling, overhung pump-fests, 'Fisher Footwork', side pulls, and smearing, are only a few of the styles that any given route will have. Most climbers would be hard pressed to find all these styles in ONE route at most 'face climbing styled' climbing gyms.
Robert Hutchins shakes off on Sneak Preview in Linville Gorge.
It's safe to assume that we all had a stellar day. It went something like this -
Eddie almost red-pointed his project Sleeper (5.10+) falling only on the boulder style crux near the top-out. I'm confident he will send on his next go, seeing as he had the rest of the climb 'dialed' like a phone call.
Robert and Tim warmed-up on Lactic Bubble Bath (5.11), continued onto Sneak Preview (5.11+), crushed Pump on Demand (5.12) and finished up on Freddie Crouger (5.11). These fellas make climbing look easy with there efficient footwork, dialed gear placements, and all around smart, smooth, climbing styles.
The ever so limber Tim 'Footwork' Fisher.
This was my third trip to their playground so I started my day by onsighting a unique climb which started on an exposed arete, topped out to a crack with awesome stemming, continued to a hole which I was convinced I was being sandbagged because I was told to climb through it, leading to a traverse onto an exposed slopey ledge that finished on a second arete.
The climb was named Guillotine (5.9+) because the 'hole' you climb through is a piece of razor sharp rock 'stemming' on the walls looking like it could tumble off at any moment. I was assured that they had tried trundling it (knocking it down) to no avail. If you fell on it, it would surely chop off whatever body part made contact with it.
Robert Hutchins snakes his way up Sneak Preview at Linville Gorge.
After finishing my next climb, Sleeper (5.10+), a route I onsighted on my previous trip, I decided I'd try and redpoint the closes thing to resemble a sport route out there. You must understand that these men do not throw bolts up on anything that can be protected with traditional climbing gear. So having a route that only takes one or two pieces (I vetoed the second piece) is almost unheard of with Tim and Robert.
On my first attempt I botched the sequence near the middle of the climb and had to figure out my beta. I let Eddie top rope it and watched Tim make the first section of Pump on Demand his bitch... I mean look easy. I am proud to say that on my second attempt, on this trip (top roped on both previous trips), I got Freddy Krueger (5.11) clean! I finished my Saturday by top-roping and cleaning Pump on Demand with only one fall/take.
Tim Fisher enjoys the view on Pump on Demand and Eddie Medina cleans the anchors on Freddy Krueger.
I don't know very many sports where you can read a book about men who seem like rock stars (pun intended) and then one day suddenly meet them. Not only meet them but climb with them and find that these legends of North Carolina ground up ethic are in Tim's words, "...just people like you Eddy."
I feel like I am a lucky man to be able to climb with people that push me both physically and mentally. I am truly proud to say that these three men are people I look up to and can call friends. And to think that this was only Saturday!
Wait until I tell you about Sunday!
Tim, isn't that taking a 'comfortable belay stance' a bit past the line?
"Water bottle holder"
